What Does Licorice Root Extract Do for Skin?

Licorice root sounds more like a candy aisle ingredient than a serious skincare one, which is part of why people underestimate it.

The actual mechanism behind it is more specific and interesting than the name suggests.

Where it actually comes from

Licorice root extract is derived from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, the same root used to flavor licorice candy, though skincare formulations isolate specific compounds rather than using the raw sweet extract itself.

The two compounds that matter most for skin are glabridin and liquiritin, both involved in how the ingredient affects pigmentation.

How it actually brightens skin

Licorice root works through a couple of distinct pathways rather than one single mechanism.

Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, similar to how several other brightening ingredients work.

Liquiritin works differently, helping disperse melanin that’s already present rather than blocking new production.

Between the two, licorice root is addressing both new pigment formation and existing pigment distribution, which is part of why it’s often positioned as a fairly comprehensive brightening ingredient.

The anti-inflammatory side is real, not just marketing

Licorice root’s other active compound, glycyrrhizin, has genuine anti-inflammatory properties that show up in real research on skin conditions like eczema and general redness.

This is why licorice root shows up in calming, redness-focused formulas as often as it shows up in brightening ones.

It’s genuinely doing two different jobs, not just one dressed up as two for marketing purposes.

What it’s realistically good for

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, general redness and irritation, and mild, diffuse unevenness all respond reasonably well to consistent licorice root use.

It’s gentler than many other brightening actives, which makes it a reasonable option for people who’ve found stronger ingredients too irritating.

It’s not a fast, dramatic fix. Visible brightening typically takes eight to twelve weeks of consistent use, similar to other gentle tyrosinase-adjacent ingredients.

The pregnancy and systemic consideration worth knowing

Most sources selling licorice root skincare don’t mention this clearly, but glycyrrhizin does have real documented systemic effects when consumed orally in meaningful amounts, including specific pregnancy-related cautions.

This is primarily a concern for oral licorice consumption, not topical skincare use, where absorption is far more limited.

Still, if you’re pregnant or have a condition where glycyrrhizin exposure matters, mentioning your skincare routine to a doctor is a reasonable, low-effort precaution rather than assuming topical use carries zero relevance.

How to actually use it

Licorice root layers easily with most other ingredients and doesn’t require the same careful sequencing some actives do.

Apply it to clean skin, in a serum or cream format, either morning or night, since it doesn’t carry a meaningful sun-sensitivity concern.

Following with sunscreen still matters if you’re using it specifically to address dark spots, since unprotected UV exposure can add new pigment about as fast as licorice root fades old pigment.

Does concentration matter

Formulations vary widely in how much active licorice compound they actually contain, and unlike some ingredients, percentage isn’t always clearly labeled.

Products that specifically list glabridin or liquiritin as an ingredient, rather than just “licorice extract” generically, are more likely to contain a meaningful, active concentration.

Can sensitive skin use it

Generally yes.

Licorice root’s anti-inflammatory properties make it one of the more commonly recommended brightening ingredients for reactive or easily irritated skin specifically, in contrast to stronger options that can cause real adjustment-period discomfort.

That said, “gentle” doesn’t mean zero risk of reaction for everyone.

Patch testing any new product, including one built around licorice root, remains a reasonable habit rather than a formality.

Two mechanisms, one useful ingredient

Licorice root does genuine work on two fronts: interrupting pigment production and distribution, and calming inflammation, through real, distinct mechanisms rather than one vague catch-all effect.

It’s gentle, slow-acting, and well suited to sensitive skin dealing with redness or mild unevenness, though it’s worth knowing about the systemic glycyrrhizin considerations that most product marketing leaves out entirely.